Enjoy Free Shipping Worldwide Limited Time Sale Easy Return. Shop Quality & Best Cases Directly From China Cases Suppliers.The original Gameboy was an 8-bit handheld console created by Nintendo.Gametown Full Housing Shell Cover Case Pack with Screwdriver for Nintendo Gameboy Classic/Original GB DMG-01 Repair Part-White.
![]() Gameboy Model Dmg-01 Dc Screen Lense Mod For AA new kit does not invalidate your prior build.I, /u/Admiral_Butter_Crust or makho on discord or youtube, own nearly every backlight kit on the market right now for pretty much every console. The best backlight kit is the one you already have. EdgesOn the top of the case is the On/Off switch.To turn the console on, you move it toward the middle.When you turn it on, the button has a bit of plastic sticking out that holds the cartridge in the slot.This stops you from removing a cartridge while it is on.This “feature” was later removed from later Gameboys, I think when designing the original Gameboy they were worried that people would pull the cartridge out at the wrong time and corrupt the save data for whatever they were playing.On the right side, there is the communication port and volume knob.The communication port is a 6-pin plug that allows one to connect to other Gameboys over a serial interface.It had a variety of different modes, including a “Normal” mode for 1 to 1 connections, a “Multi-Play” mode for 1 to 1-4 connections where each had the same game, and a “Multi-Boot” mode.I most often used it for trading Pokemon, and not much else.Text: CONTRAST, USE ONLY DMG-03.-05, ⭪ DC 6VThe left side has the contrast knob and a jack to plug in external power.The knob allows you to adjust the contrast of the screen, which is extremely useful as it can take some tuning to get the screen to look right.It is about a third of the thickness of the volume knob.You have to fight against the ambient light around you, and as you play more and the battery drains it’ll start getting fainter.There are mods to install a fancy backlit screen, but that’s a mod for a different day.The plug is intended to be used with the rechargeable battery pack, which would plug in via a cable.It was able to power the Gameboy on its own, and somewhat fixed the battery issue.On the bottom of the case is the headphone jack.This allows headphones to be plugged in, letting you enjoy that sweet 8-bit stereo sound.I think it is ironic that the headphone jack was included on the original Gameboy, but not on the Gameboy Advance SP, which was made 14 years later.Two halves of the Gameboy, connected by a ribbonTo open the case, you must remove 6 screws: 4 on back and 2 underneath the batteries.Once those are removed, the case opens up into two sections connected by a ribbon cable, pivoting at the top.The front section contains the I/O inputs, speaker and screen hardware.The back section contains the main logic board, along with a power converter board and headphone jack board connected by wires to the logic board. Screen and I/O PCBMost of the heavily lifting is done on the logic board so the front PCB is pretty simple, with lots of blank PCB space.It’s attached to the front case piece with 10 screws, much more than the other PCB.They are spaced carefully around the buttons and screen to try and provide the most support.This PCB needs to withstand the pressure of the player pressing buttons, so the screws makes sure nothing warps or breaks in ways it shouldn’t.The screen is a Sharp LH5028 160px x 144px monochrome LCD screen, capable of displaying 4 shades (2 bits worth) of green.The datasheet for the original screen can be found here.It rests on the PCB held in place by 3 clips part of the plastic screen housing.The screen contains two ICs that control drawing the X and Y axis.You can see the X axis chip in the image above, labeled 004.The ribbon for the X axis chip is held to the PCB by two small screws and a bar that is soldered across to hold it in place.The front of the screen is glass, but is protected from damage and fingerprints by a plastic cover that attaches to the front of the case.When the plastic screen is inevitably scratched, it is easy to swap it out without having to worry about the damage being permanent.Because of their age and it’s effect on glue, many Gameboys have lost this screen.Luckily, it’s very easy to pick up a pack of 4 on eBay for cheap that look brand new.The screen is pretty bulky and “meh” compared to modern screens.It requires the user to tune the contrast via a dial on the side.To make matters worse, as the batteries lose energy, the screen will also start to dim forcing one to adjust it every so often.One common modification is to swap out the screen with a modern, backlit screen.In addition to just looking better and being able to play in the sun, new screens can display 4 shades of grey instead of the original olive green.The directional and A+B buttons are made of hard plastic, while the select and start are just soft buttons made of silicon.On the PCB, the D-Pad has two contact pads for each direction, while all other buttons have 4 to capture button presses reliably.The buttons are restored to their original position using silicon pads that go between the plastic button and the PCB, similar to a rubber dome keyboard.The D-Pad pivots directly on the PCB, which over time wears a spot which luckily doesn’t rest on any contacts or lines.Back of the screen PCB while mounted in the caseThe back of the PCB is stamped with the text 005.22, which matches number stamped on the other PCB’s heat sink.This means that we have a system with original matching boards that haven’t been swapped out, and are most likely the same that were installed in the case when it was originally manufactured.This PCB is very well labeled, with each screw hole being clearly circled and each component labeled.At the bottom right on the back there is a circled letter Z.There is also an extra hole, which is very clearly marked to not have a screw inserted. FREE Shipping on orders over 25 shipped by Amazon.Except for the Game Boy Light, all Game Boy consoles before the Game Boy Advance SP (and even technically including the earlier model) use passive reflective displays.I also added a chart to be used a quick summary for the kits. If you’re new to the hobby and just looking for a recommendation on what you should get and find that this document is information overload, just pick your console (new there too? Look at a GBA or GBA SP) and just stick with the summary at the top of the section.Each system section has a summary with my recommended kit listed there. I also ramble quite a bit so I figure that limiting myself to just text and a few pictures here and there will let me try and succinctify myself a bit. I did actually end up making a video on just the GBC portion of this but it’s pretty old and obsolete now.Newer options tend to be closer to the bottom with similar options grouped together for ease of comparison. The order of options within each section is largely arbitrary. If you find yourself building a new Game Boy for every new kit, you’re probably not in it for the games, are you? The purpose of this page is to document the different offerings and the primary differences between each item, not to create a hierarchy of options to dismiss the inferior kits. Sure, the new kit from funnyplaying may have this cool new feature but it does NOT invalidate your existing build. For some kits this means full brightness control or hiding the edges of the LCD panel with a new lens but for core functionality, soldering is (usually) not required.Finally, if you’re using this list as a vector for picking “the best” , you should understand that the “the best” console or kit or whatever will always be the one you already have. Any field that has “recommended” in it should be interpreted as “yes” if you want the full experience with all features.The first SP model, the AGS-001, is a frontlit reflective display because there is a light panel in front of the screen that provides light to the reflective display. Starting with the Game Boy Advance SP, Nintendo started including internal lighting in the screens. This means that behind the screen is a reflector that is used to reflect natural light back into your eyes for the purpose of illuminating the screen. Do an internet serach of the bolded terms for more information.Except for the Game Boy Light, all Game Boy consoles before the Game Boy Advance SP (and even technically including the earlier model) use passive reflective displays. I would like to spend a quick few minutes discussing them, if nothing else, to give you proper terms to go research. I may circle back to CRT later but for now we’ll continue on about Game Boys.Let’s circle back to the two consoles I mentioned and excluded, the original DS model and Game Boy Light. There are other display types like CRT (for which is the only display that has scanlines), plasma, DLP, OLED, etc, but those are not too relevant for this discussion. All the displays I’ve mentioned so far are extremely common throughout the vast majority of electronics out there. Except for the original model DS (NTR, not USG), all Nintendo consoles made after the AGS-001 use backlit transmissive displays. These screens also have a backlight so when the backlight is off, the screen works much like a passive reflective display but when the backlight is on, the screen works much like a backlit transmissive display. These screens are built as a reflective display but instead of a reflector, they have a layer applied that will reflect light from the front or allow transmission of light from the back. The word “transflective” is a portmanteau of “transmissive” and “reflective” and is functionally similar a “one-way” mirror. TFT displays can be further broken down into twisted-nematic (TN) or in-plane switching (IPS) displays (but not limited to). All of the LCDs used in Game Boy consoles are made with thin-film transistor (TFT) technology. Good reflectors can be expensive and at best diminish color quality and black levels so most people usually opt for sunlight readibility compensation with an absurdly bright backlight instead.Next, I want to talk about the specific technologies used to make these displays. Verizon aol email mac os asking for passwordMost kits are using new old stock LCDs rather than LCDs directly pulled from phones but for replacement purposes, cheap display assemblies may be sourced and the LCD extracted manually. The kits that use these screens are designed to repurpose salvaged LCDs ($) instead of having something new manufactured from scratch ($$$). IPS type screens are often used in mod kits.Last, if you see any mention of “Q5”, “9380”, or “690” LCDs or backlight kits, that is a reference to the screen itself that is packed with the kit. Benefits of an IPS type display over a TN display usually include more accurate color reproduction and much wider viewing angles. IPS type screens were around at the time but the technology wasn’t quite mature at the time (arguably, neither was TN but TN was a lot more mature at the time) and not quite suitable for Game Boys. This made them ideal for use within an inexpensive portable device. “Q5” LCDs (DMG, MGB, CGB) are from the BlackBerry Q5 and are available as bare LCDs from most GB kit resellers or as display assemblies from phone parts resellers. The LCD must be extracted from a phone assembly if applicable to use in a GB. “9380” LCDs (CGB, AGB, AGS) are from the BlackBerry Curve 9380 and are available as bare LCDs from most GB kit resellers or as display assemblies from phone parts resellers. The digitizer is held on to the edges of the LCD (NOT laminated) with double sided tape and must be removed to use in a GB. “690” LCDs (DMG, MGB, CGB) are from the Palm Centro 690 and are available with a digitizer attached. Want a custom lens? Just order one and replace it. Scratch the lens? Just pop it off and replace it. This results in a highly durable and modular build. Traditionally, Game Boys are made with an air gap between the plastic lens on the outside and the surface of the LCD on the inside. Laminated LCDsA new trend with some backlight kits is to have the glass lens laminated to the LCD, much like how modern smartphones and tablets are constructed. Looks like some of these LCDs can be grabbed from cloud game store on aliexpress. The primary issue is that lens customization is much more expensive/difficult, especially if you want to retain the lamination since the cost of replacing a lens OR LCD now includes BOTH a custom lens and LCD. This is not without downsides, however. This cuts down on the space between the lens and LCD and results in a much better looking final install, greatly improved picture quality, and completely eliminates the possibilty of dust or fingerprints under the lens. I have three different recommendations for “best” kit as each kit seems to have different strengths or weaknesses. ContentsI actually own most of the DMG kits now. Please see this article for more information on LCD lamination and some good visuals. This kit gives you more features than every other kit in this list and requires absolutely zero permanent modification to your DMG. My pick for ease of install, performance, and function is definitely the taobao Moon Screen (item #6). Alternatively, a total replacement kit is also (finally) an option. You can go a long way in improving the contrast but the original screens are still pretty low quality and have severe ghosting issues or other display artifacts. This is certainly a good option if you like the OEM style screen but is not an option if your LCD is missing or damaged (cracked, screen rot, horizontal lines, etc). Additionally, this kit does implement a very similar OSD that allows customizable palettes and even display image positioning if your LCD is not perfectly aligned with your lens. While the install is a bit more involved, the actual display image itself is bigger (slightly larger than OEM which requires shell modification) and looks proportionally better than the Moon Screen kit when installed on the DMG. Since that kit can be a bit hard to get outside China though, the One Chip IPS “DMG Backlight OSD” kit (item #11) is also a fantastic option.
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